Down in Luilichang there are nice book stores and antique stores to feast your eyes on. Just don't like me go asking for landscape picture scrolls and get lead upstairs to a back room to find 'tasteful' Chinese nudes on display. A good place to complete your Chairman Mao pin badge collection, drink green tea, get chops carved with your own name (or with a lomo seal), talk to traditional artists in fist painting... In one of the shops there is a photo of Bill Clinton posing with the owners. I wonder if he got ripped off when he got his Chairman Mao musical cigarette lighter? Sometimes it's difficult to distinguish between the genuine article and the trash just because most items are so dirty and dusty. Use it as an excuse to barter lower.